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When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.